Growing Desert Cactus

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The scientific name of the cactus family Cactaceae is.The Cactaceae are mostly spiny succulents with photosynthetic stems that are a little more than 100 genera and species from 1500 to 1800 (Neffeler 2002).
A succulent is a plant that stores water for times when water is scarce.They are commonly found in arid environments such as deserts or semi-desert.They can also live in areas of extreme rainfall, but unreliable (as when it rains only once or twice a year in quick bursts).The cactus plants are among the most remarkable and characteristics of hot and arid areas of the New World (Nyffeler, 2002).

The cactus family is entirely of U.S. origin.Most species of cacti occur on the ground while few can be found in the leaves of trees in tropical rainforests (Zomlefer 1994).Centers of diversity, arid regions of North and South America, including the southwestern United States and Mexico, eastern Brazil and eastern and western slopes of the Andes of South America (Nyffeler 2002.)

Others may occur in the Eastern and Middle Western U.S. The northern boundaries of cacti including Washington, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Massachusetts and even the Canadian provinces of British Columbia, Alberta and Ontario when they go south to the aforementioned fields of South America ( Benson 1969).

In the U. S. , The cacti are most abundant in Arizona, Texas and parts of southern California and New Mexico (Bowers, Burgess, & Turner 1995).The most remarkable species of cactus in the appeal stage is gigantic sequaro (Carnegia gigantea), considered the most succulent in the U.S. (Kearny, Peebles, 1969).
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Cacti are well suited to being packaged for extended periods without light or water, they will almost always arrive at your house in good condition. As most species are cold resistant, they can be shipped any time of year. Since Cacti are tough and hardy, they don't have to be shipped by an overnight service, like most tropicals.

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About a couple weeks before the first hard frost (see Farmer's Almanac for dates) make sure that the soil dries up completely (shielding the plants from rain if required). Then just move the containers inside my garage to protect the cacti from freezing. The temperature in the attached, but unheated garage drops to about 38 degrees during the coldest part of Winter. There is no window, or lights available. The cacti remain sheltered in the garage, in total darkness, all Winter until you bring them out in the Spring after all danger of frost is past.

You can keep them under a shaded patio for a week or so, and slowly move them to partial direct sun, then full sun over the course of two weeks (they are subject to sunburn if exposed to direct sun immediately after emergence from the dark.) They are watered lightly each week unless water is provided naturally by rain.

When they are accustomed to full sun (May / June in my zone 5/6 location) you can use Miracle Grow plant food (as directed for container plants, even though they are exposed to the rain outdoors.) Then you should repeat fertilizing every 3 weeks or so during the Summer.

By July there is usually some good new growth which is very explosive in August and continues (slower) into late September. By late October the cycle continues and they are again placed in the dark shelter of a garage.

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Cactus has also had other practical uses. The long, soft spines of Oerocereus celsianus are used as pillow and bed stuffing. Spines of other cacti are used as toothpicks, combs, sewing needles and fishhooks. Yet other cacti are used as building materials and as living fences or hedges.

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One the earliest recorded cultivation of a specific cactus species for a specific purpose was by the Aztecs. They grew Opuntia coccenillifera which acted as a host to the cochineal scale insect. It was harvested and crushed to produce a dye that was either a rich purple (from the female scales) or a brilliant scarlet (from the male scales). The dye was used in fabrics and cosmetics.

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To prepare for cooking, the cactus thorns must be removed, carefully, with a potato peeler or sharp-pointed knife. To prepare abut 20 small, tender Nopales, cut the de-spined Nopales into squares and boil in salted water with 1/2 teaspoon of soda and one chopped onion for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the Naoales are tender. Drain, season to taste and serve.

Rain water is always better than tap water, but most species of succulents and cactus plants will tolerate chlorinated municipal water. Pouring a stream of water over these plants with a watering can, as if they were a spider plants, should be avoided, because this method produces conditions more favorable for growing fungus then succulents. When the plants are in a growth cycle they will be interested in plenty of water, and bottom watering is the best method. If the plant is not in a rapid growth cycle its better to avoid soaking the roots and a lit occasional misting can be a good way to regulate water. Wetting these plants from the top with very lit mistings will require avoiding two potential problems. The first is that ugly deposits from tap water can accumulate on the skin of succulents and using rain or distilled water can avoid this problem. The second thing that needs to be avoided is wetting the bodies of these plants while they are in sunlight. A wet cactus in the sun light can cause sun burning which can lead to scares or even fungal infections and death. Bottom watering is the easiest and best way to maintain these plants, but the soil almost always needs to remain dry when the plants are resting.

Watering needs to be done according to the growth cycles of succulents and cactus plants, and knowing when to expect this is only somewhat useful. Some succulents do most of their growing during the winter then rest during the summer months, and these need plenty of water. Other succulents and most cactus plants do most of their growing in the spring and if they're going to bloom they will do so at the end of this spring growth cycle. A few species of cacti will do most of their growing and blooming in the cool fall weather at the end of a hot dry summer. The best way to understand when the succulents are likely to go into a growth cycle is to know the species name and do some research, but what holds true in habitat will often fail in house plant conditions.

As a four seasons house plant it is difficult if not impossible to imitate the natural watering cycles succulents and cactus plants have and expect them to grow and rest exactly as they would in nature. The timing of when to water and when to keep the pot dry is best regulated according to signs of growth from the plants own sense of timing. The beginning of watering cycle in the spring can be determined by watching for signs of new growth such as the emergence of new spines or even a flower bud. When the plants have finished growing and or blooming then it is time to start drying them out. For most of these plants there should be two wet and two dry cycles and when they need water they can be incorporated into the same routine as other houseplants. The most important adjustments that will insure the long term survival of succulent and cactus house plants is to stop watering them when they are resting, and resume watering when they begin to grow.

Over watering can cause swelling or elongation of succulents and cactus plants, and it's important to avoid mistaking these conditions for growth. When plants are in their resting cycle they won't show the emergence any new spines or fresh skin, but they can look like they are growing if they are over watered. This is very bad and the plant is actually under stress and can die from too much water. In this situation it is important to stop watering the plant and keep it warm until it dries out again. If the soil is extremely wet removing the plant from soil completely and letting the roots dry out can often save the plants life. An unpoted plant can be dried out for several weeks under a plant light or by indirect sunlight. Later the water stressed plant can be potted in mostly dry soil and allowed to finish out its rest period in a dry condition. This has to be done before any fungus has started to set in for the procedure to be effective, because once fungus has started in an over watered plant it's time to start making funeral preparations.

Note: Lithops are an exception in that when they show the emergence of new leaves they need to remain dry even though they look like they are growing.

When plants are resting in their summer cycle an occasional small watering will be fine for most species as long as they can dry out between watering. Some succulents and cactus plants will actually delay their spring growth cycle until summer in more northern climates in which case they will need plenty of water. When this happens it's important to remember that these plants will be very happy to remain dryer when they are ready to rest in the fall.

In the late fall it is a good idea to bath the plants and wash off any dust and sticky residues that may have accumulated to prepare them for their long winter sleep. Some species produce small amounts of sticky secretions, which may hardly be noticeable to us, but can become an invitation to fungi if the plants are left unclean. Growth for most species of cactus will be hardly noticeable in the fall washing can be considered the last watering for the next 5 to 6 months.

During the winter for most species withholding water completely is the best method. Many plants will show signs of shrinkage during this dry period but this is normal and good as long as the roots do not disintegrate. Before deciding to water cactus plants because of shrinkage it is a good idea to examine the roots. The plant can be removed and replanted in their soil if the roots are kept dry before, during and after this procedure. If the roots are healthy and the body of the plant isn't producing any new spines it's better to continue to keep the shrunken plant dry. If the fine roots are becoming brittle and disappearing then very small amounts of water may be needed and this is best done by misting the plant after it is repotted. Even if the plant is shrunken and the roots are breaking off it is still better to avoid getting the roots wet. In all cases it's best to continue to avoid any kind of heavy watering until the plant shows signs of wanting to grow again in the spring.

In the Spring after plants have been in their winter rest, it is very important to withhold watering until the plants actually begin to show signs of growth. It is often the case that succulent and cactus plants are the most vulnerable to rot from over watering just before they begin to enter a new spring growth cycle. Some species accept watering before they are ready to grow, but it is very risky to attempt to push any plant into a growth cycle with water too soon. There will be some plants with indications of growth that are difficult to see and obviously watering can't be postponed indefinitely. If the plant has been kept completely dry through the winter and has rested for over 6 months it may be safe to resume watering without seeing signs of growth as long as the plant has daytime warmth and enough sun.

When the plants are ready to grow the best way to give them their first spring watering is to soak the roots by setting the pots briefly in bowls of water. In more northern climates most species of cactus plants will be interested in growing in late spring or early summer, and it's important to patiently keep these plants dry until the plants decide for themselves that spring has finally arrived.

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Trichocereus spachianus (syn. Echinopsis spachiana	Opuntia aciculata	A cactus, about 100 years old	Echinocereus
Echinofossulocactus	Ferocactus echidne	Schlumbergera truncata	Trichocereus pachanoi
Opuntia