Wednesday, May 31, 2006

 

Growing Succulents - Faucaria




Faucaria

Faucaria are low growing succulents from South Africa and a good choice for anyone wanting to start growing succulents as house plants. They are exceptional guinea pigs for practicing succulent plant care on because if they start to rot there is usually part of the plant that can be removed and rooted. They will tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun. Want appears to be thorns are actually soft warty growths and they make large flowers for their small size.

In very dry warm regions these succulents make very impressive out door ground covers. In a more northern humid four seasons climate they are moderately challenging as indoor plants. On most points they are very easy to grow and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem.

As house plants they tend to grow in fair weather and rest when temperatures are too hot or too cool. For them to remain compact and natural looking they have to be keep dry when they are resting. They will do their best and are more likely to flower in a bright southern window and it's almost impossible to stress them with too much window sun. Their leaves will change to a beautiful darker shade when the seasons bring more sun light, and their bright yellow flowers will usually come out in the fall.


Saturday, May 27, 2006

 

Using Vinegar on Succulent and Cactus Plants




Vinegar may be used on cactus and succulent plants on the condition that, in most cases, the product is rinsed off of these plants very very soon after it is applied. Vinegar left to dry on these plants can cause cosmetic damage to skin or worse cause enough damage to leaves, stems or the root systems to open the door to death by fungal infection.

The vinegar we've tried is intended for use in cooking which, in most cases, is a weaker acid than horticulture vinegar. For our tests vinegar was sprayed of several varieties in an amount that would completely cover the plants in 2 applications given 2 weeks apart in time. We have no interest in testing horticulture vinegar, because the vinegar for cooking proved to be strong enough to show results both harmful and with some benefits.

In some cases the damage caused by vinegar only left scares, but in others the applications created conditions for fungus to attack these plants. Some plants such as Aloe, Haworthia and Euphorbia suffered small amounts of cosmetic skin damage. Other plants sprayed in the same manner such as Hurenia, Echinocereus, Mammillaria and Rebutia suffered fatal results. The plants which died from the applications of vinegar were done in by fungal infections anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months after the second application of vinegar. It is important to keep in mind that cactus plants often appear healthy for several months after they have been fatally damaged. All of the plants we subjected to 2 spray applications of vinegar suffered some kind of damage if the vinegar was left to dry on the plants.

Beneficial Uses of Vinegar on Cacti and Succulents - 4 Different Kinds.

1. Removing hard water stains from cactus and succulent plants:

Two things have to be done for this to work with the minimum risk of harming the plants; first remove the plants from their soil and second rinse the vinegar off of the plants very very soon after the application. Spraying vinegar on a potted plant and letting the fluid run into the soil can, in some cases, lead to the death of the plant. Working with the plant removed from its soil will keep the vinegar from soaking into the roots and minimize the potential for root damage. The Ferocactus pictured above has the kind of hard water stains that typically build up on plants watered frequently with tap water.

This plant was unpotted, sprayed with vinegar for about a 30 second exposure and then all of the vinegar was rinsed off under running water. The vinegar dissolved the hard water stains and the cactus was repotted a few days later. In general it is a good idea to dry cactus plants out, in bare root form, for a few days before repotting them. A good location for this drying out period is in a northern window where they will receive indirect sun. Any time a cactus is being potted or repotted it is better to keep the roots dry and, as it was in this case the entire plant was left to dry for a few days before being repotted. This Ferocactus is now free of hard water deposits and is being watered with rain water to prevent the development of new hard water stains.

2. Vinegar as a solvent for removing insects:

It is almost impossible to make a recommendation for using vinegar for insect control, however horticultural vinegar may be a different matter, and we are ignoring this kind of product. We only tried vinegar for cooking as an insect removal solvent, and generally it is less effective than alcohol based products, or for that matter products designed to control insects like commercial insecticides.

Insects have water resistant surfaces which provide protection for them in nature. It appears to be the case that removing insects with vinegar is almost as effective as using plain water because of the animal's ability to repel water. In an attempt to remove some mealy bugs from a Hurenia the vinegar would be repelled and the insects had to be scrubbed off with more force than if a solution of soapy water had been used.

Perhaps enough exposure to vinegar would be toxic to insects and there may be some insects which can be easily destroyed by vinegar, but keep in mind that the cactus or succulent plants may also be harmed by the vinegar.

3. Vinegar as an agent for controlling surface fungus on plants:

Note: Vinegar applied to broad leaf plants with surface mold will often cause the plant to drop the leaf. This is also the case for succulents which produce thin leaf structures like Euphorbia milii (Crown of Thorns).

Usually if a cactus or succulent plants have fungal infections the plants are simply going to die, but with surface mold the plants will have some skin damage but survive. We applied vinegar (of a strength intended for use in cooking) to a Crassula argentea (Jade Plant) and an Euphorbia meloformis with good results. The application of vinegar arrested the spread of the mold with one very light spray application only to the locations where the mold was attacking the plants. These plants retained scars on their skin where the vinegar was applied, and they would certainly have scars from the mold no matter how this mold had been treated.

4. Using vinegar to stop mold from destroying cactus seedlings.

Vinegar has been very useful for us in stopping some kinds of mold when germinating seeds. There are many kinds of mold that can become problems when growing cactus and succulent plants from seed, and usually it is only a matter of removing some decaying organic matter. Often a seed which fails to germinate will turn into a fuzzy ball of mold and removing this small mass of fungus from the seed medium will be the end of this kind of mold problem.

There are also problems with mold caused by Sciara flies laying eggs in medium for germinating cactus seeds, and vinegar is unlikely to do much in the way of helping to stop this problem. More information on Sciara flies and cactus seed starting?

The kind of mold vinegar has proved itself to be effective in stopping is a long slender structured mold that rapidly grows across the surface of the soil. This kind of mold growth is very destructive to seedlings and can wipe out an entire seed tray in less than a week if allowed to grow unchecked. In repeated trials a very gentle misting of vinegar on this kind of mold has stopped it, and saved hundreds of newly emerging cactus seedlings. The applications were a gentle mist applied with a spray bottle only one time, and the vinegar also landed on newly emerging seedlings too. The seedlings have always survived the vinegar application, but it is surely the case that too much vinegar would harm cactus seedlings too. With this kind of mold, which is very fatal to seedlings, it is well worth the risk to apply a small amount of vinegar to the mold and seedlings in order to stop the mold.


Saturday, May 20, 2006

 

How to Prevent Skin Damage?




Growing Cactus

It is attractive to have some decorative stones around the top of the flower pot, but this can be functional too. Succulent and Cactus plants used as topiaries will gain several benefits when the flower pots are topped off with rocks. The top rocks will prevent rain from washing away the soil and help keep the cactus clean. Without top rocks the rain will splatter potting soil back up on the sides of plants and this not only looks bad but can be harmful too. The small spots of dirt can eventually cause scars or even cause a terminal case of rot by encouraging fungi to grow.

Another benefit with top rocks is they help prevent squirrels from digging in the soil. Imagine finding peanuts and walnuts buried in the potting soil when repotting plants which have been out doors for the growing season. Squirrels are very curious and they can damage cactus plants, in spite of the spines, when they are checking for food. The farther north you live the more likely you are to have squirrels digging in your flower pots. The best way to discourage these fluffy tailed diggers is to top off flower pots with rocks--the rougher the rocks the better.

You can find more interesting information about cacti on windowsillcactus.com


Monday, May 15, 2006

 

Cactus Flowering.




Encouraging cactus plants to bloom is usually a matter sunlight, water and especially the age of any specific variety. Cactus plants reach flowering age according to their species with some becoming ready to bloom in a few years, and others taking decades before making their first flowers. There are many varieties which almost never bloom as house plants, but the majority of them may bloom with good conditions. It is important to avoid thinking of cactus and succulent plants as unusual sorts of vineless garden vegetables. The same considerations for garden plants like sunlight, water and soil nutrients are important, but increasing all of these things as though the cactus were a tomato plant will often fail to achieve the desired results. These things do encourage flowers to happen, but must be considered according to the specialized needs of succulent and cactus plants. Keeping all care in the order of seasonal changes when providing the plants with sunlight, water and soil nutrients will encourage cactus plants to bloom as long as they are old enough.

The most important flowering requirement is sunlight in the growing seasons, and the amount of sun light needed to produce blooms will very greatly for different species of cacti. For cactus plants which seem unwilling to bloom more sunlight is the first thing to try by finding brighter locations for these plants. To encourage flowers as well as the general health of these plants, light needs to be abundant primarily in the spring, summer and fall. Most species of cactus plants will flower better if light is lowered in the winter and then increased in the spring in order to stimulate buds. Winter is a time for keeping cacti cool, dry and out of excessive sunlight and for most species this is more beneficial than keeping them in the hottest southern window all winter. In this winter rest period too much sun becomes counterproductive and causes plants to use up their stored energy reserves just to survive instead of saving resources for making flowers. If cactus plants are old enough to bloom but haven't made flowers yet, the first and best thing to try is increasing sun exposure during their growing seasons.

Watering cacti must be done according to seasonal changes, and for the promotion of flowers water is a necessity. For most species; plenty of water is needed after the plants begin to show signs of their new spring growth, occasional small amounts of water in the summer and only slightly increased amounts from late summer to fall. The winter season requires a long period with very dry soil and it is ineffective for encouraging flowers to water cactus plants too much while they are resting. Wet soil in the winter causes numerous problems like distorted growth, scaring of the skin, and worst of all watering may cause them to die from fungal infection. To end the long dry winter resting period for most cactus varieties it is usually best to wait and see that they are showing signs of new spring growth, and then resume watering. Water must be given or withheld according to seasons, and after they have started to develop their flower buds or are growing new spines from the top of the plant they will need plenty of water to make flowers. Please note that some species of cacti like Epiphyllum, Hatiora and Schlumbergera need some water year round and an extended winter dry period will harm these varieties.

Fertilizer is often considered to be a way to produce flowers from many plant varieties, but with cactus plants it's difficult to tell whether adding nutrients to their soil actually makes them more willing to flower. If fertilizer is going to be used it is best to use a product designed specifically for cactus and succulents and follow the label directions. If there are no specific directions an application of fertilizer once in the spring may give the plants a slightly higher potential for producing flowers, but for the most part fertilizing only makes the plant caregiver feel like they've made their best efforts. Cactus and succulent plants grow slowly and store up the energy they need for flowers over long periods of time, and in most cases it's more a matter of waiting for the plant to reach a mature age than increasing the fertility of their soil.

It's important to avoid imagining that cactus plants are like vineless garden vegetables which will bloom with lots and lots of sun, water and fertilizer. Cactus and succulent plants are resourceful and conservative which allows them to live in harsh environments, and it is counterproductive to pamper them with abundance. Giving them sun, water and good soil will cause them to produce flowers if their needs are met according to seasonal changes. ^


 

Growing Cacti - Flower Pots.




Most people who grow succulents and cactus plants in flower pots believe that the clay pot works better than plastic ones. This is more a matter of personal preference and what works best for each individuals plant care giving habits. Use plastic, plain clay or glazed clay pots, as long as there is a hole in the bottom for water drainage. Whether you decide to use clay or plastic it is important that the roots never soak for long periods of time in standing water, so avoid leaving standing water in a dish under the flower any pots.

Size matters to the root system of any potted plant, and it is important that roots have room to grow. In most cases it is more important to leave some space for the roots to grow than it is to try and keep the pot size small. It's true that a smaller pot will dry out more quickly, but if the roots are stressed by being too confined it will cause the plant to be at risk for a deadly fungal infection. There are a few species which need to be pot bound because they specialize in growing in the tight spaces of rock cracks in nature, but most varieties are better off without compressed root systems.


Friday, May 12, 2006

 

Growing Cacti - Turbinicarpus




Turbinicarpus Growing Cacti

This genus of small globular cacti grows in Mexico. They're flowers come in colors from white through pinks, magentas, purples and yellow. They need a window location with some direct sun and it's important to give them less water through the cool season when they are resting. In the winter months they may need different timings of watering depending on how much sun they receive in their window location. In a south window it is best to let them completely dry for at least two weeks at a time in between waterings, and keep the soil very dry for a month at a time if they are in an east or west window. When spring returns and the plants begin to grow they will need more frequent waterings, and alternating wet and dry periods through the growing seasons will help them maintain symmetrical growth. Turbinicarpus will do very well as four seasons house plants as long as care and attention is taken in their watering cycles. Keeping these plants constantly in wet soil will cause them to elongate and become vulnerable to fungal attacks. On the other extreme, if they are kept dry for too long, they may transpire so much moisture that they'll die of dehydration. Alternating between wet and dry periods through all seasons will be the best strategy for keep these miniature beauties healthy.


Wednesday, May 10, 2006

 

Growing cacti - Parodia.




Parodia cacti

This genus of mostly globular cacti are very common in propagation, and in habitat they range through Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay. They are more difficult than most varieties to keep in a natural growth pattern, but they are good survivors. Their flower colors are mostly yellow colors, but some range from lit pink through deep reds and magentas as well as oranges, whites and green. Many varieties are easy to find in greenhouses and make good house plants if they have plenty of sun. It is helpful to keep them dry in the cool winter season with only very small amounts of water. Be sure to give them lots of water when they are making flowers and growing. Too much water in the winter or too little sun in the growing seasons may cause them to have distorted growth.

 


 

Growing Succulents - Haworthia




Haworthia SucculentsThis genus of small succulent plants grows in South Africa and Namibia. Some of them are solitary, but many varieties may grow a few inches high and then form a small cluster of offshoots surrounding the central mother plant. When they bloom about once a year a stalk will rise from the base of the plant with tiny white or greenish white flowers. Some people prefer to cut off the flower stalks when they emerge in favor of showing off the leaves rather than the unimpressive flowers. They can do well in a window location with only small amounts of direct sun, but can live quite will on plenty of indirect light and tolerate cool winter temperatures. This group of succulent plants are fairly easy to care for and grow in a four seasons climate home, and hardly ever outgrow their flower pots. They grow mostly during the cool winter months and need plenty of water, but it's best to avoid soaking them. An easy and effective watering strategy is to give them small amounts of water on a weekly basis. They are some of the most forgiving succulents to grow because they tolerates both over and under watering mistakes.


 

Growing Cacti - Shrinkage.




These Gymnocalycium plants are in different stages of progress between winter rest and going into their spring growth cycles. Many species of cacti noticeably shrink when they are in a state of dormancy and this is part of their ways of surviving through the coolest winter months. This winter dormancy is similar to that of deciduous trees losing their leaves for the winter, but with cacti they have shrinkage both above and below ground. This period lasts for about 4 months in nature and can even be as long as 6 months when cacti are kept as house plants. If the cacti in this photo are watered the one on the right will remain shrunken because it is still resting while the other two plants will benefit from and need water.

These cacti began to lose water in the fall, and it is normal for them to shrink and look smaller over the winter months. The squat appearance of the one on the right might remain the same even if it were given water, because it is still in a state of rest. The cactus on the upper left has entered its spring and summer growth cycle, and the plant just below it is only beginning to come out of its winter rest period. The two plants on the left need to be given plenty of water because they are in growth cycles, but the one on the right needs to have its soil kept mostly dry.

Watering can be a serious issue for these plants when they are in a shrunken condition, because their actual need for water depends on the specific season. In the summer months shrunken cactus plants may be suffering from dehydration, and actually need water to keep them healthy. However, in the winter months it is important to avoid assuming that a shrunken looking cactus needs water, because wet soil may do more harm than good. There are some varieties of cacti which will be at risk for rotting to death even if they are watered one time in their state of winter rest, like Copiapoa, Epithelantha, Eriosyce, Escobaria and Neoporteria species. In this situation a cactus may take one to two months before it finally dies, but the genesis of its demise will be from wet roots and fungus. Cactus plants can be at risk for fungal attack if their soil is wet when they are resting, and for most globular species it is best to keep them cool and on the dry side until spring.

With shrinkage it is important to understand whether cactus plants are in need of water or dryness, and basically spring and summer means water is needed and winter requires dryness. Cactus plants are much like deciduous trees in that they have a winter rest period where they need dry down time to get ready for their next growth cycle. In the spring cactus plants will start making new spines at the top of their stems and this marks the time when they are ready to be given plenty of water.


 

Growing Succulents - Euphorbia.




Euphorbia SucculentsA few species come from the Americas, but many more come from Africa and Madagascar, and also some originate from India, the Canary Islands, the islands of Socotra and Sicily.

There are a few drawbacks and limitations as house plants that must be understood before attempting to grow Euphorbia in your home.

If a Euphorbia is damaged, the plant bleeds a white latex sap that is toxic and can, in some cases, cause blistering on the skin. It is important to handle any Euphorbia sap with care and perhaps waterproof gloves are recommendable. Whatever happens, never get any Euphorbia sap in the eyes, and remove from skin as soon as possible. These plants are best located out of reach of small children and pets. This is a group of plants that cats and dogs should never mistake for chew toys and surely some house pets end up in the emergency room every year from eating Euphorbia. Please only purchase and grow Euphorbia species if you have the ability to keep them out of reach from small children and pets.

Euphorbia sometimes have thorns, but some species of Euphorbia are basically smooth plants without any thorny projection. Euphorbia is the largest genus of succulents and these varieties grow in a very wide range of conditions. It is difficult to set a general care plan for all Euphorbia varieties, but the following may apply to most varieties which are available as house plants from cultivators.

As house plants they tend to grow in fair weather and rest when temperatures are too hot or too cool. It is very important to keep them dry when they are resting. As a general rule for this group the fatter and rounder the stems are, the less water they will tolerate when they are resting. If they are over stressed with water, they will be very vulnerable to fungal infestations which almost always cause death for these plants. It's very important to keep them mostly dry in the hot days of summer and the long cool resting period of winter.


Tuesday, May 09, 2006

 

Astrophytum




Astrophytum

This genus of globular cacti grows in the south western United States and mostly in Mexico. Even thought they are globular a few varieties will grow into a column form several feet high when they are very old. Some varieties are spineless and they often have attractive felt where the spines would be and white speckled patterns on their skin called flocking. Flocking are little white velvety flecks and come in so many patterns that each individual plant will be very unique. Their bright yellow flowers are fairly large, and sometimes the yellow will come with a bright orange or red center. They need a window location with some direct sun and itХs important to withhold water through the cool season when they are resting.


 

Ancistrocactus




Ancistrocactus

This genus of globular cacti grows some in Texas and mostly in Mexico. They are often known for their hooked central spines and have flowers with colors that range through yellow, green, rusty brown and maroon brown. Their flowers appear very early in the spring even before the last frost and they are slow growing singular plants which are ideal for a small sunny indoor space. They need a window location with direct sun and will be more likely to flower if the winter temperatures are low. They are very susceptible to rot, and it's important to withhold water through the cool season when they are resting.


Monday, May 08, 2006

 

Fertilizing the Cactus.




All mature actively growing cacti need to be fed occasionally. It is best to use a formula specifically designed for cactus like 7-40-6. (Nitrogen, phosphorus, potash) Use a mixture with a low ratio of nitrogen, as cacti can be burned by it. A commercial formula such as miracle grow or rapid grow can be used, but should be diluted to half strength. I have heard that "cactus juice" brand by Sudbury (1-7-6), is highly recommended. Regular Bone Meal, available at most Garden Centers, makes an excellent organic fertilizer. Don't forget the macro-nutrients like Iron (Fe), Calcium (Ca), Sulfur (S), and Magnesium (Mg). Also important are the micro-nutrients Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), and Manganese (Mn).

San Pedro especially, does very well indoors behind glass. A location where the plant gets at least 4 hours a day of bright, direct sunlight is ideal. The best possible situation would be a South facing sliding glass door, and a reflective screen placed behind the Cactus to redirect and concentrate the light.

Many Cacti have beautiful and fragrant flowers, but they can be quite hard to get to bloom. The optimal conditions to induce flowering are, a cooler temperature (especially at night), reduced day length (12 hours or less), and variations in nutrients (lower nitrogen levels). Try putting your Cactus in a dark, unheated garage (not below freezing) for a few weeks. Forcing can also be done inside, but you need a place next to lots of glass that stays cooler than the rest of the house.


Friday, May 05, 2006

 

Unknown Rot on Lophocereus.




Problem- Concentric brown rings appear on the trunks of lophocereus in the winter time. Fusariumoncactithumb cactiLesion continues to expand until the whole trunk is cut off from root supply. Cause is unknown.

Solution - Cut off contaminated branches. Use very clean knife and good hygiene.


 

Scale on Myrtillocactus.




Problem- Scale appears and begins to grow up the sides of your plant.Cacti desiases

Solution - Scale is easy to control with just a garden hose. Not a bad problem.

 

 

Mealy Bugs in Dasylirion.




Problem- Ants and mealy bugs can build up a. This is usually caused by the ants exploiting Mealyindasylirionthumbthe plant

Solution - Wash and hose off all plant surfaces with water. Repeated washing are needed. Recovery is good. Ant control is in order.


 

Mealy Bugs in Aloe.




Problem- Ants and mealy bugs can build up a. This is usually caused by the ants exploiting Mealyonaloethumb Cactithe plant

Solution - Wash and hose off all plant surfaces with water. Repeated washing are needed. Recovery is good. Ant control is in order.

  

 

Cochineal Scale on Opuntia.




Pests and Diseases on Succulents :

Here we have taken the trouble to display for you many of the pests and diseases that can attack your plants from time to time, Most problems can be avoided by providing your plants with good nutrition and favorable growing conditions. Ants are one of the biggest problems, as they control many of the other pests. Once you control the ants many of the other problems just go away.

Cochineal Scale on Opuntia

Cohinealscalethumb Cactiproblem - Cottony white masses develop on the areoles of opuntia. When squished they exude a red a red blood colored juice. This is a very common pest on opuntias and is very easy to identify from its red colored exudates . They will scar and damage plant if gone unchecked. Red exudate has been used by artists as unique pigment.

Solution - Commercial sprays work but natural controls work just as well. Here's what to do. Cut off a few of the most infected pads to open up your plant for hosing. This is usually not a problem as opuntias generally make many pads. Then use a forceful spray from a garden hose to spray off the rest. Repeat hosing every two weeks until under control. Then just spray as needed. Opuntias are predisposed to this kind of problem. Recovery is very good.


Thursday, May 04, 2006

 

Aloe Rust.




Problem- Black spots appear under the skin of aloe in winter time This problem only seems Cacti desiasesto happen on certain aloes in the winter.

Solution - Grow species that are resistant to this problem

 

 

Aloe Cancer




Aloe Cancer

Aloecancerthumb Cactiproblem - A strange proliferation of leaves and shoots emerges from between leaves. If left unattended it can grow and overcome apical dominance and ruin your plant. Most likely caused by a virus being vectored in via some small chewing pest like a mite or thrip.

Solution - If your plant is rare or much loved then just trim away infected areas with sharp knife otherwise just throw away. Recovery is good.


Wednesday, May 03, 2006

 

Growing Lobivia cactus.




Lobivia cacti are native to the Andes, Argentina and Bolivia in fact the name is an anagram of Growing cactiBolivia which is where most of them are found. Here it grows at high altitude where the nights are cool or cold and the daytime temperatures are moderate.

They tend to be fairly short growing plants with spherical or cylindrical stems which are occasionally branched. They are upright growing plants but rarely get more than 6 inches high.

All of the Lobivia cactus have medium sized flowers which are generally yellow or red but they can be shy to flower as they require distinct resting periods to do well.Growing Requirements

Temperature

Most of the Lobivia cactus are pretty hardy plants and many can be grown as alpines in a frost free greenhouse, this is because during the winter they receive little water and temperatures can drop to below freezing but as the roots are dry then they cope very well.

In cultivation the daytime temperature should be kept below 20C and allowed to fall to 2C - 3C during the night. The best way to keep them is to grow them outside from May through September and place them in a sheltered spot where they do not get strong direct sunlight. From September through May they should be moved to a fully ventilated frost free alpine house or a cool east or west facing windowsill.

Pot Type

Lobivia cactus are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath.

Compost

Lobivia prefer an open and very free draining compost which should consist of:

Watering

The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth. As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water. During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting

Grow Lobivia cacti in semi shade during the summer allowing only early morning sun and late afternoon sun to fall directly on the plant and prevent strong midday sun from scorching the plant. During the winter you can allow more direct light on to the plant as is is much weaker than the summer sun, keep in a west or east facing window or a south facing one if you have net curtains to protect from the harsh sun.

Feeding

If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may loose the plant.


 

Growing rebutia cactus.




Rebutia cacti are native to Bolivia and Argentina where they grow mostly at altitudes of Growing cactiaround 12,000 feet.

Rebutia are easy plants to grow and will reward you with brightly coloured flowers which are produced in shades of red, yellow and orange.

They usually flower in the spring following a winter rest. They are all small growing cacti and are ideal candidates for bowl gardens where a small scape can be created with great effect.

Growing Requirements

Temperature

Most of the Rebutia cactus are intollerant to the cold and need a minimum winter temperature of 10C combined with a winter rest period.

In cultivation the daytime temperature should be kept at 20C to 30C during the summer months. The best way to grow them is on sunny windowsil or from June through September place them in a sheltered spot outside where they get strong sunlight. From September through June they should be moved to a fully ventilated sunny windowsill.

Pot Type

Rebuia cactus are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath.

Compost

Rebutia prefer an open and very free draining compost which should consist of:

Watering

The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth.

Compost

As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.

During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing.

Lighting

Grow most species of Rebutia cacti in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun, if kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

Feeding

If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker colm months.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.

Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may loose the plant.


Tuesday, May 02, 2006

 

Aeonium Succulents




Aeonium succulents are native to the Canary Islands, North Africa and Madeira. They tend to form rosettes of leaves at the end of the leafless stem which takes on the appearance of a branch. Flowers are usually in the form of pendant racemes and are typically yellows. Aeonium-arboreum

Growing Requirements

Temperature

In cultivation the daytime summer temperature should be kept between 20C - 30C and can be allowed to fall to 12C - 15C at night and 12C - 18C during the winter day and not less then 5C during the winter night.

The best way to keep during the summer is to grow them outside from May through September and place them in a sunny spot where they get maximum sunlight. From September through May they should be moved to a south facing window.

Pot Type

Aeoniums are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath.

Compost

Aeonium prefer an rich and very free draining compost which should consist of:

Watering

The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine.
During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Aeonium-atropurpureumLighting

Grow aeoniums in bright sun during the summer and winter to avoid lush weak growth, strong sunlight will encourage the full colours of the leaves to develop.

Feeding

If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its pot by cradling the stem if it is very tall. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.Re plant it using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the plant. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may lose the plant.


Monday, May 01, 2006

 

Diseases and parasites of cactus.




Usually Cacti are very disease free, but occasionally. Especially if the plant is over watered, any part may be susceptible to molds or rot. If the roots are infected, then most probably the core is also and the plant is lost. If an above ground part of your plant is affected, the area should be cut out with a sharp knife to remove any infected matter. The cut parts should then be dusted with sulfur or a fungicide.

If any of the roots are affected then the plant should be un-potted and thoroughly cleaned. Of course all rotted or dead parts are removed and burned. The plant should then be repotted in pure sand and kept dry at a temperature between 64 - 70 degrees F. Cactus are tough and are designed to withstand long periods of drought, they should start growing again when healed and watered.

Usually the only pests that may plague your Cactus collection are scale insects belonging to the superfamily Coccoidea, mealy bugs, and nematodes. Of interesting note, one species of scale is intentually grown on Opuntia Cactus so that their eggs can be harvested and made into a red dye.

An environmentally friendly method of controlling scale is to spray the plants with a mixture of rubbing alcohol and nicotine. Make sure to coat the entire surface of the plant. If nematodes are present, the plant must be un-potted and the roots cut off. It is then repotted in a sterile soil mix till rerooted. The infected soil should then be sterilized or discarded, and all infected matter should be burned.


 

Grafting techniques in growing cacti.




 

Cacti are almost unique in the fact that they can be easily grafted. This is the process of joining the stem or a piece of a plant on to the rooted section of a different plant. Trichocereus make an excellent grafting stock for slower growing cactus. Grafting is best performed in the springtime, when the plant is growing at its most vigorous. The process is as follows:

With a sterile knife, (either by alcohol or flame) cut the top off of the plant that will be used as the base. Bevel the edge of the top slightly, to form a shape like an upside down pie plate. Make sure to trim off all of the spines along its edge to prevent misalignment. Sterilize your knife and cut a thin slice off of the top of your base Cactus again. Leave this slice in place as it protects the cut surface. Next, un-pot the plant that is going to be on top and slice off its roots a small way up the stem (remove any dead, dry areas). Again sterilize, and bevel, and cut a protective slice just like before.

Just before you join the two pieces (the scion and stalk), discard the protective slices. Be careful to align both plants sets of growth rings. You should push them together firmly because you want to be sure that all air bubbles are squeezed out. Carefully secure the plants in place using twist ties, rubber bands, or string weighted down with bolts. Do not over tighten, you don't want to strangle it, just hold it firmly together.

Do not water your plant or place it in the Sun for a few days to a week, give the graft time to seal. Then remove the bindings and slowly acclimatize your new friend to its surroundings.

Peyote has been known to increase its growth rate markedly if they are grafted on to the tips of faster growing Cacti like Opuntia. That leads me to an interesting question. Has anyone ever grafted several Peyote buds on the tips of a large, multi-branched San Pedro? It would probably look something akin to a scraggly X-mas tree, with a general conical shape, but a dozen or so thick arms, each tipped with a large cluster of bulging buttons. Hmm, gets one to thinking.


 

Growing cactus indoors, under lights.




It is recommended that a minimal level of illumination to grow Cactus indoors is around 15 watts per square foot (150 watts/ sq. meter). Fluorescent lighting should be placed 12 - 15 inches (28 - 35 cm) from the top of the plants. High Intensity Discharge Bulbs should be placed considerably further away (depending on wattage). Plants do much better if the day length is kept more or less constant, depending of course on the season. Be sure and use a timer set to 12 - 18 hours a day. Most plants grow best if the light, dark period matches that of their native habitats. When using artificial lights, be sure and use reflectors to catch and concentrate as much light as you can on the individual plants. For maximum growth, your plants should be rotated about every two weeks to assure even illumination.

Cactus, like most plants are more sensitive to certain frequencies (colors) of light. This is usually towards the blue and red parts of the spectrum. For best results use a grow light type of tube for fluorescent lights, or for killer results, step up to a metal halide. These kind of lights produce more light in the colors that the plant can use.

Metal Halide fixtures also produce a great deal of heat and some UV radiation, your Cactus will love it. These fixtures have proven to work well in an indoor environment as they have been used by "closet" growers successfully for years.


 

Growing cacti from cuttings.




Note: When harvesting a large Cactus, make sure that it is at least 18 inches (46 cm) long. Cut the Cactus into 3 equal size sections with a sterilized blade. Do this by making one slice 1/3 of the way from the growing tip, and another slice 1/3 of the way from the base of the plant. (Soil level) Leave the bottom, rooted section to regrow, use the middle section for your purposes, and use the top piece to root as a cutting.

When rooting a Trichocereus species, take a cutting that is at least 15 cm (6 inch) in length. I have heard that cuttings as small as 2 cm (1 inch) thick can be rooted, but I advise a larger section. Be sure and take the cutting from a growing tip. Cut several shallow nicks in the ribs close to the bottom of the cutting. Set it in a cool dark place until the bottom becomes dry and hard to the touch (somewhat like cork).

The section is now ready for planting after being dipped in a rooting hormone like Root Tone (use per instructions). The section should be inserted about 7 cm (3 inch) into a commercial cactus mix. Be careful as the pot will probably be top heavy. Keep the cutting in the shade and let the soil dry out completely between waterings (watch for rot). Cuttings might need an occasional misting at their bases if they fail to root or shrivel.

Some cluster forming Cacti, such as Mammillaria can be easily separated from the mother plant after they start forming separate roots. Just carefully break them off of the parent plant with a gentle, twisting motion ( a sterilized knife may be needed for those stubborn plants ). Plant the young starts as you would any other cutting, just remember to slightly bury the plants and cover all roots.


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