Wednesday, April 26, 2006

 

Growing lithops.






Lithops are some of the most sought after succulent plants and with good reason. These remarkable little plants are native to quite a small area in South African - Namaqualand. Here they grow in very dry desert areas with the stems burried in the stony dry earth and only the tips of the stems being visible.
Most of them have intricately patterned tips to the leaves which make them look like stones - hence the common name of living stones. There is another good reason for growing lithops, they have large daisy like flowers apearing from between the two leaf tips.

Temperature
The habitat where Lithops come from is very dry and hot so it's this needs to be reproduced if you want to sucessfully grow lithops. Keep at a temperature of 25C - 35C during the summer and not less than 10C during the winter, you can keep them cooler so long as they have plenty of light and the compost is kept dry but they will not withstand frost.

Pot Type
Lithops are best grown in a terracotta type bowl or pots and look great if grown in clumps surrounded by real stones and pebbles.
The pot should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed.

Compost
Lithops prefer an open and free draining but rich compost which should consist of:
1 part John Innes no. 2 compost
1 part peat or coir based compost
1 part sharp sand or grit

Watering
The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth. As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing.
From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting
Grow most species of Lithops in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun, if kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

Feeding
If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker colm months.

Repotting
Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may loose the plant.
1 part broken crock pieces (small)

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Monday, April 24, 2006

 

Agave Succulents.




Agave succulents are native America and are tough plants. They form rosettes of elongated leaves which may or may not have serrated margins but are usually tipped with a spine spine. Many of the leaves are an attractive blue/green colour and some are marginated with cream, white or yellow. Agave-victoria-reginae

Growing Requirements

Temperature

In cultivation the daytime summer temperature should be kept between 20C - 30C and can be allowed to fall to 12C - 15C at night and 12C - 18C during the winter day and not less then 5C during the winter night although some are hardy in sheltered parts of the UK.

The best way to keep during the summer is to grow them outside from May through September and place them in a sunny spot

where they get maximum sunlight. From September through May they should be moved to a south facing window.

Pot Type

Agave plants are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath. Compost

Agave prefer an rich and very free draining compost which should consist of:

Watering

The plants should be kept almost dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine.

From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth. As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.

During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting

Grow agave in bright sun during the summer and winter to avoid lush weak growth, strong sunlight will encourage the full colours of the leaves to develop. Agave filifera

Feeding

Agave like plenty of food so half strength general purpose fertilizer should be used at watering time from May onwards twice a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its pot by wrapping the rosette in newspaper and tying it to prevent yourself from being stabbed. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.Re plant it using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the plant. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may lose the plant.


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Tuesday, April 18, 2006

 

Notocactus cacti





Notocactus cacti are native to the Brazil and Uruguay where the land is quite dry and the daytime temperatures can get high.
They tend to be fairly short growing plants with cylindrical and spherical stems which are rarely branched.
They are upright growing plants but may occasionally grow sideways with the top half looking as though it is wilting, this is less common that the upright growth and usually only occurs in old plants.
Cristate (wavy edged) forms are avalible in some species but these are usually grafted plants.

All of the Notocactus cactus are slow growing plants and make excellent house plants which in time will produce very large colourful flowers..

Growing Requirements

Temperature
The habitat where Notocactus come from can become very cold during the winter nights, often it will fall to just above freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry. When growing at home it is best to avoid any frost as you may loose the plant but during the winter the temperature can be as low as 2C without any harm so long as the compost is very dry.
During the summer it is best to keep the plants outside where the temperature can rise to over 30C with no harm to the plant.
If kept in a greenhouse you will need to watch the temperature as under glass it can rise dramatically particularly if the windows and vents remain closed.

Pot Type
Notocactus cactus are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath.

Compost
Prefers an open and free draining compost which should consist of:
1 part John Innes no. 1 compost
1 part peat or coir based compost
1 part sharp sand or grit
1/2 part broken crock pieces (small)

Watering
The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth.

As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water. During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting
Grow most species of Notocactus cacti in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun, if kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

Feeding
If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker colm months.

Repotting
Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.
Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may loose the plant.

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Opuntia cacti






Opuntia cacti are native to almost the entire United States where the enironment is very changeable from desert to quite rich moist soil.
They are one of the largest genus and contain an incredible range of plants from small through true giants. One common factor with the oputia cactus is that they have 'pads' which are joined together giving them the common name of bunnies ears.
Many produce edible juicy fruits too and some are commercially available as Prickly Pears, such a plant is Opuntia ficus indica - easily to grow, flower and fruit!
The vast majority of the Opuntia cactus are easy to grow growing plants and make excellent house plants which will produce large colourful flowers in brick red, yellow and orange.

Temperature
The habitat where Opuntia come from can be very dry and hot or quite rich humid so it's difficult to suggest a single growing temperature but typically they should be kept above 5C during the winter and around 30C during the summer. Some such as Opuntia chlorotica, Opuntia compressa, Opuntia phaeacantha & Opuntia vestita are hardy in the UK if planted in a well drained and sheltered position.

Pot Type
Opuntia cactus
are best grown in a terracotta type pot which has a heavy base as the plants can grow very tall. It should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath.

Compost
Opuntia prefer an open and free draining but rich compost which should consist of:
1 part John Innes no. 2 compost
1 part peat or coir based compost
1/4 part sharp sand or grit
1/4 part broken crock pieces (small)

Watering
The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth.
As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water.
During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing.
From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting
Grow most species of Opuntia cacti in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun, if kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

Feeding
If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker colm months.

Repotting
Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.
Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may loose the plant.

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Saturday, April 15, 2006

 

Echinocereus Cacti.





Echinocereus Cacti
Echinocereus cacti are native to the Western USA states and Mexico where the land is quite arid and the daytime temperatures are high.They tend to be fairly short growing plants with cylindrical stems which are occasionally branched. They are upright growing plants but may occasionally grow sideways with the top half looking as though it is wilting, this is less common that the upright growth.

All of the Echinocereus cactus have large and showy flowers which are usually purple through pale pink but one or two have crimson flowers and make an excellent addition to any collection.

Growing Requirements

Temperature

The desert in Mexico can become very cold during the winter nights, often it will fall below freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry. When growing at home it is best to avoid any frost as you may lose the plant but during the winter the temperature can be as low as 2C without any harm so long as the compost is dry.

During the summer it is best to keep the plants outside where the temperature can rise to over 30C with no harm to the plant. If kept in a greenhouse you will need to watch the temperature as under glass it can rise dramatically particularly if the windows and vents remain closed.

Pot Type

Echinocerues cactus are best grown in a terracotta type pot which should have at least one drainage hole in the base and it should be unglazed. This type of pot allows good drainage and allows the compost (therefor roots) to breath. Compost

Echinocereus prefer an open and free draining compost which should consist of:

1 part John Innes no. 1 compost
1 part peat or coir based compost
1 part sharp sand or grit
1/2 part broken crock pieces (small)
Watering

The plants should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth. As the compost is very free draining and the pot used is porous you can safely water this type of cactus at least once a week during the summer so long as the plant pot is allowed to drain and not sit in a tray of water. During hot weather you may need to water the plants once a day so long as the plant is actively growing. From late September watering should be reduced to force the plant to go in to a state of semi dormancy, by November you should be back in to the winter watering regime.

Lighting

Grow Echinocereus cacti in full sun during the summer and winter, if kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

Feeding

If the compost is fresh then feeding may not be necessary at all, if the plant hasn't been repotted recently then half strength general purpose fertilizer can be used at watering time from May onwards once a month. Do not feed the plants from September onwards as this can cause lush growth which can be fatal during the darker cold months.

Repotting

Repotting should be done every other year or every three years, annual potting is not necessary. Remove the plant from its put by wrapping newspaper around the stem if it is very spiny. Carefully tap it out of the pot and remove the old compost to examine the roots, if any are damaged or showing signs of rotting they should be removed as close to the plant as possible.Re plant the cactus using the same mix of compost as it was originally in (fresh) and use a pot just slightly wider then the width of the cactus. Do not be tempted to over pot as this will cause the unused compost to go stagnant and you may lose the plant.

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Tuesday, April 11, 2006

 

Growing cacti (cactus) from the seed.




The key to growing cactus from seeds is that unlike other plants, cactus seeds need direct sunlight (or grow lights) to germinate, so you must place the seeds on top of the soil, not under the soil.

So my best advice is:

1 - Use Cactus Soil. This comes with the Odd Pods package and can be purchased separately if you have just purchases seeds.

2 - Sift the soil into a number of small ~ 2 inch planters, eliminating any clumps with your hand.

3 - Thoroughly moisten the soil - but make sure that there is no standing water.

4 - Evenly sprinkle 6 to 10 seeds on top of the Cactus Soil in each 2“ planter (don't cover with soil)

5 - Place the planters where they will receive maximum sunlight. You can also supplement this with a grow light or even florescent lights.

6 - Your seeds will sprout at different times but you should see seedlings within 5 to 7 days.

7- Once the seedlings appear, use a spray bottle to mist the seedlings to keep them from drying out.

8 - Remoisten the soil every 3 to 4 days for the first few weeks to prevent it from drying out.

9 - Once they get bigger water them every 3-4 weeks as necessary.


In the beginning you need to prevent the soil from completely drying out without over watering. It's a delicate balance for the first few weeks. After that most plants require watering once every 2-4 weeks (bigger plants once every 3 to 4 weeks). If mold starts to appear, reduce the moisture and water the plants with a mixture of one capful of hydrogen peroxide to 7 ounces of water. This will kill the mold but not the cactus.

The next bit of advice is to start out with about 1/3 of the packet the first time. This way, you can learn from your mistakes (if any) and try again once you’ve gotten the feel of things without ordering more seeds. I have one client who managed to grow ~ 70 cactus plants from one packet of seeds but she is an expert. Most people will be lucky to end up with 20 to 30 plants.

The most important advice is to just have fun with this!

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Thursday, April 06, 2006

 

Growing Desert Cactus




There is a commonly held belief that cactus plants are tougher and more resistant to neglect than other types of plants. The reputation of cactus plants for toughness is most likely due to two factors: their spiny, well- protected exterior tends to give them the appearance of being able to look after themselves, and they are also slower than most plants to show symptoms of distress. While most plants will yellow, drop leaves and wither soon after experiencing stress, a cactus will often simply suffer in silence until it suddenly drops overbeyond hope of recovery.


The first step in ensuring success in growing a healthy cactus plant is to purchase one that is already in good health. Avoid any plant that has damaged spines, obvious signs of bruising, or that has lopsided or uneven growth. A plant that has put on new spindly growth during its time in the store should be avoided. Even under ideal growing conditions, the spindly growth produced in a dimly-lit store will never broaden out to normal size, leaving the plant with a permanent disfigurement. Ideally a cactus should be purchased in the greenhouse where it was grown, or as soon as possible after it has been shipped to a retail outlet.

The care required by a particular type of cactus is largely dictated by the climatic conditions where that cactus would be found growing in nature. A good rule of thumb for looking after any plant is to provide conditions as close as possible to those under which the plant would be found growing naturally. In general, the two most common classes of cactus are those of sun-loving and shade-loving.

Sun-loving Cacti

Sun-loving cactus plants are those that appear the way we normally expect a cactus to look. They are native to arid desert regions where they receive direct sunlight for a large portion of the day. In the home, these plants should be placed in a window with a south or west exposure where they will receive direct sunlight for at least a few hours each day.

The quantity and frequency of watering provides one of the biggest dilemmas to cactus owners; and since a cactus does not wilt at the first sign of drought stress, the plant itself offers few cues to a need for water. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top 2 to 3 centimetres of soil is dry.

This should be adjusted with season, however, as plants will require more water during the period of summertime growth than they will during the slowed, or halted growth of winter. In winter the plants may require water only once a month. During winter you should supply just enough moisture to prevent the roots from drying and dying. One of the most important considerations in watering a cactus is that the pots must never be permitted to stand in water. Waterlogged soil can quickly lead to rotting of the roots with disastrous consequences for the plant.

Desert Gardens kidney style dish planter

The growing medium also plays a role in watering and plant health. Contrary to popular belief, most cacti do not prefer to live in pure sand. In nature, they may be found growing in sand, but this is only because they are able to survive in conditions where the plants which compete with them for space cannot. Cacti are not found naturally on rich soils, simply because the other plants that can survive on these soils have crowded the cacti out. In the home, where competition from neighbouring plants has been eliminated, cactus plants will respond favourably to a rich soil that is free-draining. While cactus soil mixes are available, you can make your own by combining two parts peat-based potting soil with one part very coarse sand or grit. Fertilizer can be added to every second watering during the summer, with the frequency and concentration of fertilizer being reduced in winter. Either a specially formulated cactus fertilizer can be used, or fertilizer such as 15-15- 30 which includes minor or trace elements.

While most cacti tolerate a wide range of growing temperatures, most will do best at temperatures similar to that of most other house plants. When temperatures are either too hot or too cold, a cactus will often simply go dormant. An ideal placement for a cactus in winter would be a sunny cool room. During the summer, cacti will appreciate being moved outdoors where they can receive brighter light in combination with cooling breezes during the day and cool humid conditions during the night. If moving your cactus outside for the summer, be sure to place it in a position of partial shade for the first few weeks, and slowly move it to a sunnier location. A plant going directly outside into full sun will likely be scorched by the more intense light found outside the home.


Shade-loving Cacti (Cactus)

Shade-loving cacti are those members of the cactus family that would normally be found growing in moist tropical jungles. They frequently have a trailing growth habit and flattened stem segments like those seen on the familiar Christmas cactus. Since they are native to the same areas where many of our more familiar tropical plants originate, they tend to thrive under conditions similar to those for other house plants. They do not tolerate intense sun, but will thrive in an east window. They also grow quite well under artificial lights. Since flowering on many tropical cacti is begun in direct response to the length of day, plants grown under artificial light should have the daylength reduced in winter so that they are in darkness for more than 12 hours each day. Without these shortened days, such plants will not flower.

Like many jungle plants, these types of cacti do not have an annual period of dormancy and will require even moisture throughout the year. Since shade- loving cacti continue to grow throughout the year, they require a more regular supply of nutrients and will benefit from mild fertilizer at the time of watering. They can be fertilized at the same strength as sun-loving cacti, but on a more regular schedule. Like other cacti, they require a free-draining growing medium, and should never be permitted to stand in water.

Jungle cacti tend to be less tolerant of temperature extremes. If a tropical cactus is placed outdoors for the summer it should be placed in the shade of a tree where they will receive bright but filtered light.

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